"What IS that dripping on me? Is someone spitting on me from one of these buildings? Maybe shouldn´t try to figure it out now, someone might try to take my bag, I might run into someone, I´ll figure it out later."
There are people everywhere. Cars honking, people talking, I catch a word I know every so often, but much is lost on me. Santiago is jammed with people. People on the sidewalk, motorscooters in the streets, busses, people leaning out of balcony windows.
"Which way am I going anyhow?" I´d think as I walked. "The sun seems to be in a little lower in front of me, so that must me North. No maybe it is West." I didn´t know. Tall buildings blocked out the landscape entirely, and when I did get a glimple into the distance it was obscured by a heavy haze lying on the city.
Santiago reminds me of the pictures I have seen of cities in Asia. So many people in the streets that is impossible to walk in a straight line. Sometimes the pedestrians form critical masses, blocking the honking traffic for a few moments, to shuffle across the street. But somehow among the honking cars, and chattering Chileans, an overall calm remains. There are many, many homeless here. Sleeping on the streets, walking the streets. Living on the street. And many homeless perros too. But unlike the US they do not beg from me as I pass, they are just living their lives, and although I know I stick out with my pale skin and ponytail, they leave me alone.
The city is like no place I´ve ever been. Little shops jam the streets, each selling a little bit of this, or that, many times repeated upon themselves. I was looking for a little padlock, some sunscreen, and a place to change some money from dollars into Chilean Pesos. I looked in a hundred little shops all "Farmacia" or some such name, and found sunscreen easily. But it took hours of looking to find a lock. Finally after wandering for many hours, and asking many questions I came to a little ¨Ferreteria", or as it translates in my mind, an "iron store." There I found a little lock.
As for changing money... As I was walking through one of the city squares, taking a couple of pictures, a couple approached me. A woman of about 30, and a man of near 40. They asked where I was from, using English better than my Spanish, but not ideal. I gathered that they were looking to ask for money. They said they were students at the university here, explained that all universities here are private, and it is difficult to pay for an education with the wages made here. They were very interested in my life in the US, and I enjoyed practicing my Spanish as we talked.
They took me to the Catholic Cathedral, built about 400 years ago, to the presidential palace, where Pinochet had a bloody coup sometime in the 70´s, and to a couple of interesting museums which we did not enter, but they suggested. They kept mentioning how they needed money for their education. I told them I had no Chilean money with me, but if they could take me to a place where I could change money I would get some. They were very intent. This all made me a bit nervous, but I did appreciate their hospitality, and it was worth it to me to give them a few dollars for the tour, regardless of whether they were truly students of pediatrics, and veterinary medicine as they claimed.
However once they had finally found a place where I could change money (which was surprisingly difficult as no regular bank will do this) they became a bit short and demanding. It was clear they each wanted to get going, and they wanted some money before they were going to leave, so I pulled out a 10,000 peso note from my pocket (not really comprehending the value of the note) and handed it to the man. He seemed really quite put off, which I didn´t understand, and said it was really not very much. "She has to pay for school too you know." I said that just because I was from the Estados Unidos did not mean that I was made of money, but eventually gave the woman 10,000 pesos as well.
I really wasn´t sure how much I 10,000 pesos was, so I went to the quietest spot I could find near a museum and thought about it for a while. I realized it is somewhere in the neighborhood of a US $22, and felt a bit used, but figured that it was worth paying this amount to learn a bit about how the world works, so I could learn to avoid this type of thing in the future. I was glad everything had gone as it did, and decided I would stay away from anyone being overly friendly in the future.
I´m staying at the Andes Hostel, in the Bella Artes district of Santiago. It is very cosmopolitain, and located near much of the activity of the city. There are little cafes and clubs all around, and lots of little farmacias etc.
After my walk through the city with my "amigos" earlier today I figure I walked about 8 or 10 miles, and I was tired. So I went to sleep for a while at 6, woke at midnight, and am now wide awake. My body doesn´t have any idea what time it is.
In the morning I am going to find the bus station, figure out when I can leave for Puerto Montt (my jumping off point for Patagonia, and the ferry to Puerto Aisen), and try to arrange for a bus leaving the day after tomorrow. I´d like to visit a couple of the museums here, and the Biblioteca National (National Library), eat a meal somewhere (which I never did today), and repack once again before heading south. But Aside from that I´m really ready to get out of this metropolis, and go somewhere more rural.
I think I´ll try to get to Coyhaique a few days before Lindsay´s class ends, as it looks beautiful there, and I think I will be glad to get away from the city, where I am always somewhat on edge.
It is two hours earlier than Eastern Standard Time here, for those of you who may be wondering what time it is down here.
As for that water that kept dripping on me- all of the buildings have little air conditioners in the widows here, so walking the sidewalk you are constantly being dripped on from some high up window.
Send comments as you can! I´d like to know what you all think.
Adios,
Eugenio
Thursday, January 31, 2008
Tuesday, January 29, 2008
And so It begins..
The lights came over the hill, I was out of breath from hiking through the snow carrying everything I will use to travel to South America on my back, the car stopped in the darkness and the passenger window slid down, "Bus isn't running this morning, weather emergency, sorry," the driver said. The window slid up and he drove away into the darkness of the morning blizzard.
The snow fell on my face, I thought of the train I was to catch 50 miles away through the darkness and the snow, and I started walking. My arm instinctively reached outwards, my thumb pointing up into the darkness of the morning.
A semi rolled by apathetically ignoring the plight of this traveler. A friend's truck lerched past, driver weary and unaware of me as he focused on making it to his destination safely. Another truck approached. My arm began waving around, my legs lifting my body up and down. "Stop, stop, wait for me," my soul shouted. The truck stopped. The driver eyed me suspiciously.. "Can you take me to Eugene? I've got to catch the 9 o'clock train, and there is no bus this morning," I said.
We rolled into the blizzard and my trip had begun.
A day's journey behind me, I sit in a sunlit window contemplating the journey to come. "I'm traveling not so much to learn what is out There, as to learn what is in Here," I think.
It is a social life I lead, one of many friends and countless acquaintances. For me the struggle is to find a space, find the strength, to be alone, to just do Eug's stuff. To what do what is right for me, now.
I find it difficult to set myself aside, and focus on my goals, my projects, as I am often distracted by the temptation to journey to a friendly locale, enjoy the company, and often a good meal together. This trip is a sort of forced isolation for a soul weary from too much of a good thing.
The sun still shines through the bay window I sit next to, illuminating the ever green foliage that comprises every unpaved inch of Cascadia. It speaks to me, "leave the little glowing plastic box Eug, the world awaits," and so I go.
The snow fell on my face, I thought of the train I was to catch 50 miles away through the darkness and the snow, and I started walking. My arm instinctively reached outwards, my thumb pointing up into the darkness of the morning.
A semi rolled by apathetically ignoring the plight of this traveler. A friend's truck lerched past, driver weary and unaware of me as he focused on making it to his destination safely. Another truck approached. My arm began waving around, my legs lifting my body up and down. "Stop, stop, wait for me," my soul shouted. The truck stopped. The driver eyed me suspiciously.. "Can you take me to Eugene? I've got to catch the 9 o'clock train, and there is no bus this morning," I said.
We rolled into the blizzard and my trip had begun.
A day's journey behind me, I sit in a sunlit window contemplating the journey to come. "I'm traveling not so much to learn what is out There, as to learn what is in Here," I think.
It is a social life I lead, one of many friends and countless acquaintances. For me the struggle is to find a space, find the strength, to be alone, to just do Eug's stuff. To what do what is right for me, now.
I find it difficult to set myself aside, and focus on my goals, my projects, as I am often distracted by the temptation to journey to a friendly locale, enjoy the company, and often a good meal together. This trip is a sort of forced isolation for a soul weary from too much of a good thing.
The sun still shines through the bay window I sit next to, illuminating the ever green foliage that comprises every unpaved inch of Cascadia. It speaks to me, "leave the little glowing plastic box Eug, the world awaits," and so I go.
Monday, January 28, 2008
Headin' Out
I'm leaving Oakridge in a few short hours, voyaging first to Portland and then on to Santiago, Chile and beyond, to Patagonia for a backpacking adventure. I've been up all night doing last minute preparations, and now at 4 am I am finally basically ready to go. My pack waits next to me, and the snow continues to fall outside during an unusually cold and snowy night here in Oakridge.
I wrote a letter about talking about what I've been up to a couple of weeks ago when Natty was here with the good intention of sending it out in paper form before I left. But as often happens with me, time flew by and I didn't get it in the mail, so at Natty's suggestion I'm going to post it here on the blog for you all to check out if you like.
I'll post as often as I can along the way as my adventure unfolds. Tune in every so often as there should be some interesting tales to come.
My letter follows:
January 9, 2008
Greetings from the Snowy Northwest,
As the snow falls outside McKenzie’s and Danielle’s cabin here in Crescent, Oregon, my friend Natty and I are inside drinking orange juice snow slushies and staying warm by the fire. We have been looking forward to seeing each other, as we have grown to be close friends and she left to attend the Women’s History Masters Program at Sarah Lawrence College in New York last fall.
I have been working at the Willamette Mountain Mercantile for a over two years now, (http://mtnmercantile.blogspot.com & www.mtnmercantile.com) and things are good. We sell all types of outdoor equipment; bikes, skis, clothing, cast iron cookware, and camping stuff. Located on Highway 58, and being the only outdoor shop in Oakridge or for many miles in any direction, we meet all types of people doing all kinds of interesting things. I often tend the shop by myself, stoking the woodstove, answering questions, fixing bikes and skis, and generally helping people find ways to enjoy the outdoors near Oakridge.
On my days off I have been enjoying the wonderful outdoor opportunities all around Oakridge. Mountain biking and skiing are perennial (doesn’t this mean all year long?)favorite activities, but I like to ride around on my unicycle, swim in the many streams and lakes nearby, and play ping pong too.
Last year I attended Central Oregon Community College during the fall term, and Lane Community College during the spring term. I studied writing, Spanish, geography, and website design. I contemplated returning to continue my studies this fall at Lane Community College; however, I decided to take a couple terms off to follow other dreams. My friends and co workers McKenzie and Danielle, were expecting a baby this fall, and Lindsay (Natty’s sister) was planning a trip to Patagonia, Chile for the spring. I decided to work through the fall and go to Patagonia with Lindsay for an extended trip in the spring.
The summer flew by as I filled my days working at the shop, seeing friends who were passing though, leading amazing tours through the forested mountains and lush coastlines of Oregon with Wild Heart Cycling (www.wildheartcycling.com), doing support at the Cascade Cream Puff mountain bike race, putting a new roof on Win and Mark’s house in Oakridge, building a deck next to the Airstream trailer which I call home, going out for cruiser bike rides after work with friends, hanging out with my dad here in Oakridge, and keeping all of the mountain bikers’ bikes well tuned.
As the fall hit it was wonderful to enjoy the rain; a fresh and cleansing event I look forward to after every dry Oregon summer. Danielle’s belly was getting big, and she was taking time away from the shop to nurture herself and the baby. McKenzie and I tended the shop until early December when he and Danielle headed down to Coburg to spend the remainder of their pregnancy with McKenzie’s family. Lindsay and I bought our tickets to Chile over Thanksgiving from her family’s house in Bend, solidifying our travel plans together.
December flew by. With McKenzie and Danielle gone I was largely in charge at the Mercantile, leaving me lots to do. This was good for me as I needed some extra hours to save for my upcoming trip, and I enjoyed the time at the shop. Their baby was born a healthy 9lbs, 11oz, on December 23, and they named him William Huckleberry Bowerman. I love him! I hope they call him Huck, a name I’ve always liked.
Natty and Lindsay both came home a couple of days before Christmas, and I went to Bend and to celebrate the holiday with their family. We all enjoyed our time together. Lindsay and I made final plans for our trip, and she left on the 1st of January for Santiago. Once in Santiago she traveled southward to Coyhaique, in the Patagonia region, where she is taking a NOLS mountaineering course beginning tomorrow.
As for me, I’m leaving on the 29th of January (my dad’s birthday) from Oakridge, and flying out of Portland on the 30th. My trip will follow Lindsay’s footsteps, as I fly to Santiago and continue onward to Coyhaique where we will rendezvous on the 11th of February. From there we will travel south together via ferry to Torres del Paines National Park, for a week long backpacking trip around the torres, or towers, of granite rising several thousand feet out of the surrounding forest and lakes.
After our adventure around Torres del Paines we don't have any set plans, we only know that we are looking forward to adventure, quality experience, and joy when we can find it. So we'll play it by ear, and listen to the recommendations that come along the way before we make plans.
Our flights back to the states leave on March 12. We are both going to fly to New York to visit Natty for a week, before returning to Portland on the 19th. I've never been to New York City, and I'm looking forward to that part of the trip as much as the rugged and rural landscape of Patagonia.
I'll try to keep you posted via my blog along the way.
See you out there!
Eugene
I wrote a letter about talking about what I've been up to a couple of weeks ago when Natty was here with the good intention of sending it out in paper form before I left. But as often happens with me, time flew by and I didn't get it in the mail, so at Natty's suggestion I'm going to post it here on the blog for you all to check out if you like.
I'll post as often as I can along the way as my adventure unfolds. Tune in every so often as there should be some interesting tales to come.
My letter follows:
January 9, 2008
Greetings from the Snowy Northwest,
As the snow falls outside McKenzie’s and Danielle’s cabin here in Crescent, Oregon, my friend Natty and I are inside drinking orange juice snow slushies and staying warm by the fire. We have been looking forward to seeing each other, as we have grown to be close friends and she left to attend the Women’s History Masters Program at Sarah Lawrence College in New York last fall.
I have been working at the Willamette Mountain Mercantile for a over two years now, (http://mtnmercantile.blogspot.com & www.mtnmercantile.com) and things are good. We sell all types of outdoor equipment; bikes, skis, clothing, cast iron cookware, and camping stuff. Located on Highway 58, and being the only outdoor shop in Oakridge or for many miles in any direction, we meet all types of people doing all kinds of interesting things. I often tend the shop by myself, stoking the woodstove, answering questions, fixing bikes and skis, and generally helping people find ways to enjoy the outdoors near Oakridge.
On my days off I have been enjoying the wonderful outdoor opportunities all around Oakridge. Mountain biking and skiing are perennial (doesn’t this mean all year long?)favorite activities, but I like to ride around on my unicycle, swim in the many streams and lakes nearby, and play ping pong too.
Last year I attended Central Oregon Community College during the fall term, and Lane Community College during the spring term. I studied writing, Spanish, geography, and website design. I contemplated returning to continue my studies this fall at Lane Community College; however, I decided to take a couple terms off to follow other dreams. My friends and co workers McKenzie and Danielle, were expecting a baby this fall, and Lindsay (Natty’s sister) was planning a trip to Patagonia, Chile for the spring. I decided to work through the fall and go to Patagonia with Lindsay for an extended trip in the spring.
The summer flew by as I filled my days working at the shop, seeing friends who were passing though, leading amazing tours through the forested mountains and lush coastlines of Oregon with Wild Heart Cycling (www.wildheartcycling.com), doing support at the Cascade Cream Puff mountain bike race, putting a new roof on Win and Mark’s house in Oakridge, building a deck next to the Airstream trailer which I call home, going out for cruiser bike rides after work with friends, hanging out with my dad here in Oakridge, and keeping all of the mountain bikers’ bikes well tuned.
As the fall hit it was wonderful to enjoy the rain; a fresh and cleansing event I look forward to after every dry Oregon summer. Danielle’s belly was getting big, and she was taking time away from the shop to nurture herself and the baby. McKenzie and I tended the shop until early December when he and Danielle headed down to Coburg to spend the remainder of their pregnancy with McKenzie’s family. Lindsay and I bought our tickets to Chile over Thanksgiving from her family’s house in Bend, solidifying our travel plans together.
December flew by. With McKenzie and Danielle gone I was largely in charge at the Mercantile, leaving me lots to do. This was good for me as I needed some extra hours to save for my upcoming trip, and I enjoyed the time at the shop. Their baby was born a healthy 9lbs, 11oz, on December 23, and they named him William Huckleberry Bowerman. I love him! I hope they call him Huck, a name I’ve always liked.
Natty and Lindsay both came home a couple of days before Christmas, and I went to Bend and to celebrate the holiday with their family. We all enjoyed our time together. Lindsay and I made final plans for our trip, and she left on the 1st of January for Santiago. Once in Santiago she traveled southward to Coyhaique, in the Patagonia region, where she is taking a NOLS mountaineering course beginning tomorrow.
As for me, I’m leaving on the 29th of January (my dad’s birthday) from Oakridge, and flying out of Portland on the 30th. My trip will follow Lindsay’s footsteps, as I fly to Santiago and continue onward to Coyhaique where we will rendezvous on the 11th of February. From there we will travel south together via ferry to Torres del Paines National Park, for a week long backpacking trip around the torres, or towers, of granite rising several thousand feet out of the surrounding forest and lakes.
After our adventure around Torres del Paines we don't have any set plans, we only know that we are looking forward to adventure, quality experience, and joy when we can find it. So we'll play it by ear, and listen to the recommendations that come along the way before we make plans.
Our flights back to the states leave on March 12. We are both going to fly to New York to visit Natty for a week, before returning to Portland on the 19th. I've never been to New York City, and I'm looking forward to that part of the trip as much as the rugged and rural landscape of Patagonia.
I'll try to keep you posted via my blog along the way.
See you out there!
Eugene
Wednesday, January 16, 2008
More Pics
A couple of my favorite pics of Natty out playing at Smith Rock over Christmas, one of myself with Lindsay and Mark near Benham Falls, and Wade before the Handmade Bike Show in Portland. I feel lucky to have such great friends.
Bloggin' Again
.
Sorry for the long delay in Blog entries! I've been hiding out in Oakridge and Bend, with a short trip to Portland for the Oregon Handmade Bike Show with Wade sometime a while back.
I'm preparing to leave for Santiago, Chile via Portland, Oregon on the 30th of this month.
Since my last entry my friends Natty and Lindsay came home to Bend for Christmas break. Natty from Yonkers, New York where she is attending graduate school at Sarah Lawrence. Lindsay had been working with friends in Seattle and preparing for her mountaineering course in Patagonia. I have become a part of their family, and happily went to Bend to spend Christmas with them and their family.
Lindsay is now in Coyhaique, Chile where she is taking a NOLS mountaineering course. She and I plan to meet on the morning of the 13th, in the "plaza" in Coyhaique. I really excited for the newness and wonder of being in an unfamiliar place and traveling alone, and equally excited to meet up with Lindsay and begin traveling together.
Between now and then I have to go through everything I'm planning to take, and pair it down to the minimum. I have a pile of stuff in the Airstream destined for Chile, my backpack out and ready to get loaded, and a list of things to do before I leave in my journal. Not long ago it felt like this trip was a long ways off, and I had lots of time to prepare, but now it is only a few days away and there is still a lot to do.
The pictures are of me up on Tumalo Mtn at dawn (taken by Lindsay), and Mac last weekend at the Hoodoo Tele Fest, Mac (haulin' ass). Blogger won't let me post any more pic's on this entry, so I'll try again in a minute.
Sorry for the long delay in Blog entries! I've been hiding out in Oakridge and Bend, with a short trip to Portland for the Oregon Handmade Bike Show with Wade sometime a while back.
I'm preparing to leave for Santiago, Chile via Portland, Oregon on the 30th of this month.
Since my last entry my friends Natty and Lindsay came home to Bend for Christmas break. Natty from Yonkers, New York where she is attending graduate school at Sarah Lawrence. Lindsay had been working with friends in Seattle and preparing for her mountaineering course in Patagonia. I have become a part of their family, and happily went to Bend to spend Christmas with them and their family.
Lindsay is now in Coyhaique, Chile where she is taking a NOLS mountaineering course. She and I plan to meet on the morning of the 13th, in the "plaza" in Coyhaique. I really excited for the newness and wonder of being in an unfamiliar place and traveling alone, and equally excited to meet up with Lindsay and begin traveling together.
Between now and then I have to go through everything I'm planning to take, and pair it down to the minimum. I have a pile of stuff in the Airstream destined for Chile, my backpack out and ready to get loaded, and a list of things to do before I leave in my journal. Not long ago it felt like this trip was a long ways off, and I had lots of time to prepare, but now it is only a few days away and there is still a lot to do.
The pictures are of me up on Tumalo Mtn at dawn (taken by Lindsay), and Mac last weekend at the Hoodoo Tele Fest, Mac (haulin' ass). Blogger won't let me post any more pic's on this entry, so I'll try again in a minute.
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